Plant Health

MAINTAINING YOUR ANNUALS

Article By: Monrovia - Horticultural Craftsman

Definition of Annual

The scientific definition is considered to be plants living one year or less. During this time the plants grow, flower, produce seed, and then die. In the real world, however, the used of the die. In the real world, however, the use of the term gets a little bent depending on when the plants in question flower and in what part of the country you are talking about. In Michigan, impatiens are considered annuals and die after a frost. In other parts of the country, however, where frost is not a problem, they continue to survive. Another example is the relative new hybrid dianthus such as the Telstar series. The plants are started from seed by plant producers, sold at garden centers as annuals, have a beautiful summer flowering period, and set seed in late summer. The plants are perennial and will grow and flower again the next year.

Soil Preparation

You will find that good soil preparation helps tremendously for a successful season of bloom from your plants. Addition of organic matter such as leaf mold, compost, or peat moss should be added prior to planting. This is especially true with heavy clay and sandy soil is not frozen or especially true with heavy clay and sandy soils. A 4- to 6-inch layer should be worked into the soil by spading or rototilling anytime the soil is not frozen or excessively wet. Also, choose a site that will not have standing water after rainfall. Annuals do not like "wet feet."

Plant Nutrition

This can be done in more than one way usually learned from experience working with your specific garden location and soil type. A general recommendation for a well-prepared soil is apply a balances garden fertilizer at a rate of two pounds per 100 square feet at the time of soil preparation. A slow-release type or even the old standby, 5-10-5, can be used. The number represent the percent of nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium, respectively, in the fertilizer. Water-soluble fertilizers can be used following label instructions later in the season if additional nutrition is needed–usually as the result of extra rainfall.

Planting

It is important to choose the right kind of plant for the right place. Consider a shaded area as one that receives six or seven hour per day of afternoon shade or filtered sun such as received under a locust tree. Annuals recommended for shaded areas do much better if they received under a locust tree. Annuals recommended foe shaded areas do much better if they receive some sun and not placed in area as one receiving seven or more hours of sun per day, primarily in the afternoon. Most kinds of plants will do best in one or the other of these areas. Also, determine the overall height of the plant taller growing material to the back and shorter material to the front of the planting area.

Before digging any home, set out individual plants in their position and adjust to allow for proper space requirements. Dig a hole only as deep as the root ball so the crown of the plant will be at the same level ad in the container. Place the plant in the hole and black fill using existing soil. Water thoroughly to settle soil around the roots and to eliminate any air pockets. In the first 10 days, make sure the soil around the plants does not dry out; otherwise, proper new growth into the surrounding soil will not take place.

Season Bed and Plant Maintenance

Proper use of mulched will retain soil moisture, reduce weed problems and keep plant root cool. Keeping the roots cool is of major importance for peak performance. In fact, the utilization of fibrous-rooted begonias and impatiens can be expanded to location with more sun as compost, shredded leaves, and back are good choice. A 1- or 2-inch layer around the plants is recommended.

If a very dry spell is experienced and the plants need water, apply the water, if at all possible, around the plant and not on the plants. This is very important on helping control plant diseases. Water the root zone thoroughly such deep watering develops a deeper root system which is less vulnerable to drying out.

Old flower heads or stalks that show up on a ageratum, dahlia, dianthus, large flowered marigolds, pelargoniums, salvia, snapdragons, verbena, and zinnias should be removed as necessary. This keeps the plants looking nicer, stimulates new flowers, and helps with disease control. Petunia plants, if they become spindly or leggy by the first week of July, can be pruned back several inches after which a water soluble fertilizer should be applied. The plants then will look much nicer the whole month of August.

Kinds and Varieties of Annuals

Kind of plant is shown by type of ares recommended for best performance. Varieties that have exhibited better-than-average performance at the MSU trail gardens can be obtained from the Michigan Nursery and Landscape Association, 819 N. Washington Ave., Suite 2, Lansing, MI 48906 (517) 487-1282, or through the Spartan Ornamental Network (SON) at your local Country Extension Office, or from your plant supplier if they are connected to SON.